X-Plane on a curved screen

Hopefully this post can add some clarity for those attempting to project X-Plane on a curved screen (cylindrical projection).

During the process of building my 737 simulator I’m evaluating alternatives to Microsoft Flight Simultator X (FSX). Most recently I was reintroduced to X-Plane 10 by Laminar Research.

A minimal requirement for my simulator is to be able to project a 120 degree view on a curved screen. I played around with the X-Plane demo and from the settings and initial views it looked great, but due to available time I didn’t get a chance to fly the sim but ended up ordering a desktop version from their store. Upon recieving the 8 DVD package in the mail and tweaking up X-Plane’s lateral view and zoom settings, the outer 60 degree views were still quite warped and had a fisheye feel.

X-Plane 10 looked great sitting still. Upon movement I was quickly disappointed.
X-Plane 10 looked great sitting still. Upon movement I was quickly disappointed.NIKON COOLPIX L100 , 3.5, 5.0mm, 0.018 sec, ISO 800
X-Plane 10's warp.
X-Plane 10's warp.NIKON COOLPIX L100 , 3.5, 5.0mm, 0.015 sec, ISO 800
KSEA on X-Plane10
KSEA on X-Plane10NIKON COOLPIX L100 , 3.5, 5.0mm, 0.009 sec, ISO 800
X-Plane10 with 3 projectors using 1 computer. It didn't work. 3 Pro keys on 3 computers is needed.
X-Plane10 with 3 projectors using 1 computer. It didn't work. 3 Pro keys on 3 computers is needed.NIKON COOLPIX L100 , 3.5, 5.0mm, 0.015 sec, ISO 800
X-Plane10 on the runway.
X-Plane10 on the runway.NIKON COOLPIX L100 , 3.5, 5.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 800

I reached out to Laminar’s support asking for any rendering tweaks or if I had to purchase the $750 Pro license (as it supports cylindrical projection), even though this was for non-commercial home use. I recieved the following response:

“You would definitely need the USB PRO key to unlock the image warping and edge blending required for the set up you have. Note, however, that the only way you’re really going to be able to get this to look good is if you use one machine to drive each projector and, of course, you’ll need one USB PRO key per machine. I realize this may be more money than you were hoping to spend but that’s the only way it will really shine.”

This is where I stepped off the X-Plane train. I have 3 projectors and for me to setup X-Plane properly, I would have to invest an additional $4300 on 2 more computers and 3 Pro license keys. This additional expense at this stage of the build isn’t worth it. Perhaps in the future, but for now it’s a toss-up between FSX or Lockheed’s Prepar3d (P3D).

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Thank You

I just wanted to say thank you to those who donated on my behalf to the MS Society. Without your help it would’ve been very difficult for me to participate with my fellow Dell Boomi team members.

Now it’s my turn…
The bike is tuned and ready, gear loaded and GoPro camera charged. Over 300 miles of training has been logged in the short time I’ve had preparing for this event. A new Trek 1.2 road bike was purchased with this event in mind as well as Garmin Edge 500 bike computer to record the route and riding telemetry. This data will be uploaded to Strava once I return home.

Our 100 mile trek begins not-so-bright and early, Saturday morning at approximately 6:30AM near Cherry Hill, NJ. 4-5 rest stops later, and 100 miles behind us, I hope to cross the finish line in Ocean City, NJ.

If you told me three months ago I would be participating in a 100 mile (century) bike ride, crossing the state of New Jersey, I would’ve laughed in your face. This will be the most demanding physical challenge I’ve put in front of me in some 17+ years and I hope this is only the start of a healthier lifestyle that was a long time coming.

So again, Thank You to those who gave and those who support me in this endeavor.

—jeff

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PowerSDR software update

For those of you having “motorboat” issues with a Flex Radio, check out their new software version v2.4.4, released on 9/5.

I was just about ready to get rid of my Flex-5000 due to stability issues and feeling like the platform was being forgotten about with all the hype around the new 6xxx series, when Flex suddenly releases 2.4.4.

I have to admit, 2.4.4 appears to have resolved a number if not all of my 5000 issues. I would usually experience audio skipping, stuttering (motorboating) randomly, but could easily replicate it when running the Ham Radio Deluxe suite, CW skimmer, or open a web browser. Oddly enough, these issue came to the surface more often when i UPGRADED from an AMD quad core Phenom to an AMD eight core. Most likely due to difference in the way the BIOS interfaces with my firewire card.

In addition to the obvious changes in stability, CW keying seems smoother and not as aggressive and loud.

Here are the release notes:
http://support.flexradio.com/Downloads.aspx?id=402

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New road bike

Ever since my commitment to participate in the MS150 – City to Shore ride I’ve been debating about getting a new road bike to train on. After much debate and research, I decided to go with a 2013 Trek 1.2 Compact from BikeLine.

It was a toss up between an endurance or racing bike. I’ve been looking closely at the Specialized Sectour endurance bike and a Specialized Allez and a Trek 1.2 racing bikes. Unfortunately the local Specialized dealer didn’t have the right size Allez for me in stock and the look of the Sectour wasn’t doing anything for me.

Time being of the essence with only a month to train for a 100mi MS ride, I pulled the trigger on a 2013 Trek 1.2 Compact. The Trek being my first road bike seems to be a great bang for the buck with a pretty aggressive design. BikeLine of Pottstown hooked me up and got the bike built fast! I love having them within 2 miles of my house and will most definately continue doing business with them.

On Saturday Laurie and I headed over to Valley Forge park for it’s maiden ride. The first thing I noticed was how smooth it was. The rear derailleur shifts fine, but the front derailleur seems a little stiffer and the shifter snaps into gear on downshifts.

The Trek feels like it rides on rails and the gearing was great for the rolling hills of Valley Forge. Initially I was a little surprised trying to climb the first hill due to the gearing difference between the Trek and my Giant mountain bike. This may be something different with the triple as opposed to the compact.

Overall I’m very pleased with the bike and it’s very fast compared to what I’m used to. I can’t wait to start stacking miles on it.

Click here to see the details of this ride.

2013 Trek 1.2
2013 Trek 1.2
2013 Trek 1.2
2013 Trek 1.2
Getting sized up on the Trek 1.2
Getting sized up on the Trek 1.2
Trek 1.2 test ride
Trek 1.2 test ride

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The Poor Man’s SDR

This has been a long awaited post for a few people in the community who have asked me about this project. I dub it “The Poor man’s SDR“. This post will simply serve as a summary. Your mileage may vary.

The goal was to enable an already feature-rich radio with SDR receive capabilities near that of a Flex Radio or K3 with LP Pan. There has been much debate within the TS-480 Yahoo forum surrounding which IF to tap, 10Mhz vs 70Mhz. (Ask me why I no longer participate in said forums…)

The 1st IF (70Mhz) provides much more spectrum to feed into PowerSDR although required specialized hardware to even tune the 70Mhz IF. If you already have made a capital expense into a Perseus or like radio this wouldn’t be an issue. The 2nd IF is downstream from the roofing filter which limits width to roughly 20khz. I know what some of you are thinking.. “This is useless, you don’t know what you’re doing. Go die in a car fire!” I beg to differ. (Ask me about forums again…)

If you need 96k or 192k of SDR bandwidth, buy a Flex 3000 or 5000 like I ultimately did. They rock! But if you want to have some fun with what you already have, read on.

Here’s what you’ll need:

A Kenwood TS-480(SAT or HX)
A Z10000 buffer amp from Clifton Labs. I bought my buffer assembled with a 4db gain (i winged the spec). It also came with RG-178 teflon coax with connector (mini sma) already installed and an mini SMA to BNC to connect to a softrock receiver.
A Softrock receiver from KB9YIG. I’m utilizing a Softrock RX Ensemble II. This was donated from NB3R, whom ordered his pre-built
A good sound card. See this link for more info.
A good soldering iron, an anti-static wristband, some electrical tape, a Phillips screwdriver, a steady hand and enough guts to disassemble your fully functional TS-480. A stiff drink may assist with the latter.

WARNING!!! – I am not responsible if you wreck your radio. You assume full responsibility for your actions. This WILL void your warrantee. You have been warned.
Now drink because I’m writing this based on my memory of doing this project almost a year ago.

When you open up your radio (the side with the lit logo), you will be faced with the logic board. This board is where the filter board and voice keyer plugs in. Disconnect the grey coax jumpers (these are the IF lines), remove the grey cover where the voice keyer goes. Also remove the filter board.

31-Jul-2012 10:29
31-Jul-2012 10:29

Remove the ribbon cable card-edge-type connectors from the right side of the board. Be especially careful here. If you break the plastic clip which locks the card edge in the slot, the ribbon will not stay firmly connected in place and the radio will either not work or behave erratically. Most damage doing this mod is likely to occur here. Don’t use pimp/goon hand strength. Remove the remaining wiring to this board.

Remove the remaining screws holding the board in place and remove the board from the chassis. Turn it upside down. We will be working on the underside. What was once on the right will now be on the left (for the spatially challenged).

Read this part carefully.
Cut the teflon coax in half, solder one end of the cut RG-174 to the input of the buffer, the other to the solder side of the board where the 2nd IF coax socket is located (circled in RED). Center conductor to the small solder point (top), shield to the larger (bottom).

31-Jul-2012 10:29
31-Jul-2012 10:27
31-Jul-2012 10:29

Route buffer so the coax to the IF tap passes to the other side of the board where the filter board would go. Route the other RG-178 (with connector) through one of the square vents on the front of the radio (with the mini-sma connector on the outside) and solder it to the output of the Z10000 buffer board.

We now need to provide power to the Z10000 buffer. I accomplished this by piggy backing power from the PWR1 (HX model) side of the radio. The reason for doing this is to provide power to the buffer even if it is in RX Only mode (HX model) with one leg of power connected.

Carefully turn over the radio and remove the panels to expose the RF deck. Locate the radio’s power leads (large red and black wires). Solder some power wire (light gauge) to the power input of the buffer and route it through the side of the chassis to reach the other (top) side of the radio. Solder the buffer power leads to the power leads of the radio. See photos.

31-Jul-2012 10:29
31-Jul-2012 10:29
31-Jul-2012 10:29

Now that the wiring has been completed, re-assemble the bottom of the radio, turn it over and reinstall the logic board. Reconnect ribbon cables (carefully) and all other electrical connections. Wrap the buffer board in electrical tape or some other non-conductive material. Re-install the filter board, the plate which overs the voice keyer and all external covers. If you have screws left over, you’re doing it wrong.

Power up the rig. If it works, you did it right! Congrats on not destroying your radio!

Turn off the TS480 and connect the Softrock antenna input to the mini-sma connector you’ve just installed in the 480. Power the beast back on.

Tune your Softrock receiver to 10.550 which I believe is the 2nd IF frequency of the TS-480 (going on memory of a year ago). The audio output should be wide frequency audio with very high pitched sound and should change as you roll the VFO knob.

Download and Install PowerSDR-IF from WU2X. Follow through the steps he’s indicated in the “Getting Started” section. With some success, you should see similar results as below.

31-Jul-2012 10:29
31-Jul-2012 10:29

PROJECT NOTES
Buffer Function – The purpose of the buffer board is to protect the IF stage of the radio. It also prevents output sag in the IF path which weakens the receive capabilities of the radio. This project can be completed without the buffer, but based on the information I’ve just stated, it was well worth the $44.

SDR Bandwidth – Going back to the 1st vs 2nd IF debate, I’ve had excellent results with the approximate 20khz bandwidth provided by the 2nd IF. With applications like CW Skimmer, I was able to “hear” CW QSO’s 10khz above and below my selected center frequency. Eg, Tuning to 7.010Mhz would provide decoding of 7.000 to 7.020. The waterfall in Skimmer was much clearer with more successful decoding by utilizing IF tuning over typical 3khz audio output. With this setup I was able to dramatically increase my CW QSO rate in a contest only weeks after I completed this project.

Buffer Gain – I stated that I “winged it” when I selected 4db of gain on the buffer when I ordered it. This was based on documentation interfacing the Kenwood TS-2000 to the LPPan. I felt they may be similar.

Panadapter Anomalies – A noticeable null in signal is present in SSB and CW modes on the panadapter at the center frequency. This is not audibly present. A workaround I employed was tuning my IF receive frequency down by 5khz (10.500) on the Softrock and adding offset to PowerSDR to line everything back up. This may be caused by the Softrock. Need further testing to prove out.

Mirrored Waveforms – You may see mirrored waveforms surrounding the center frequency. I believe this to be caused by delay in phase between the I and Q outputs of the Softrock. This should be resolved by utilizing a higher quality IF receiver such as an LP Pan or like hardware.

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New beam

A month ago during the 2011 CQ Worldwide Phone contest I lost my roof-top hexbeam to wind. Areas around me would not only suffer damage from the wind but also record snowfalls. I got off lucky, altough my hexbeam did not. Also to note, this was a homebrew antenna and not one commercially made. The hex is an excellent design and definately gets the job done, so no complaints here.

With that out of the way, I was on a search for some aluminum and recently encountered a Hy-Gain Explorer 14 (EXP-14) that was in the attic of a local ham. I knew nothing of this Hy-Gain model, but the specs seemed to be right in line of what I was looking to accomplish. The price was right and it was in excellent condition. In speaking with the seller, the beam used to belong to a local club who unfortunately lost access to put up towers for field day and this beam was one of the casualties.

The Hy-Gain EXP-14 has a unique feed point (as they even state in the manual) with parasitic driven elements on 10m. It weighs approximately 45lbs, 14ft boom with a 17ft turning radius, perfect for my rooftop mount.

I had to beam built, tuned and installed in what seemed to be record time, only taking 3 1/2 hours. Part of that time included running out to Home Depot for a 12″ mast (above the rotor) and prepping the coax with ring terminals.

Once the beam was up, I could hear a drastic difference compared to my temporary bob-tail curtain on 20m. The first stations I heard were from India and Oman. Keep in mind, all of this was going on during the CQ Worldwide CW contest that I unfortunately could not commit a serious amount of time in due to the holiday, but ended up being a good time to test the new antenna and tweak the station.

The antenna is only sitting about 25ft off the ground, 6ft from rooftop. I was concerned with takeoff angle with the antenna being so close to the ground, but the fact that I was able to work into the Middle East, India and Asiatic Russia all while barefoot, says something.

In the photo, it may look like the antenna is mounted to the chimney, which it is not. The mount is a modified non-penetrating roof mount for DirecTV-type satellite dishes with 8 low-profile concrete blocks acting as ballast. The lower mast is guyed to the plate that holds the blocks. The mast is then guyed to the 4 corners of the house and attached just below the rotor.

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Shack Power Plant

Within the last couple weeks, my 50A Sorensen instrument power supply has been giving up the ghost. If I would draw anything more than a 19A load, the radio would start to output hash all over the band, generating a recklessly wide signal on CW. I must say, not very good amateur practice. Since then, I’ve been looking around for a solid power supply, even finding a nice 35A rack mount Duracom at a local hamfest for $75 which I ended up kicking myself days afterwards for not buying.

My search ended while browsing some eBay auctions and was instantly introduced to the Chinese OEM-type switching supplies used in various devices and appliances. The prices were very reasonable, 30A supplies for approximately $50. How good could they really be?

I remembered hearing something early on about switching power supplies causing interference in the shack, or generating hash so loud, it would cover-up the reception of weak DX stations. I immediately started my search on eHam to see if anyone else had attempted using similar supplies and expected to hear the usual horrific war stories. I was surprised to hear something positive on the subject with many hams having gone the same direction.

Here’s a link to one of such discussion threads:
http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php?topic=71829.15

With that in mind I found an eBay auction for 2 units and purchased both.

Upon wiring up one of the supplies with Anderson power-poles leads for output DC and the stripped back end of an extra computer power cord for the input AC, I was ready to unleash my abuse. Below you will see my findings tested with a power meter used for troubleshooting electric RC airplanes. The meter displays voltage, current draw, watts and amp hours and has been a very sought after tool in my shack. I highly recommend picking one up.

The first photo shows current draw on one supply leg of a 200w Kenwood TS-480HX at 100% duty-cycle, full output. Current draw measured was 19.5A.
The second photo captures nominal output voltage of 13.24V at minimal load. 1.2A was measured with the radio on and idle. This was the maximum voltage I could get out of this supply.
The third photo indicates the voltage drop with a 19.5A load. Output only dropped .25V.

OK so it looks like the supply will do 20A fairly easy. But will it output it’s rated 29A? I was able to draw the radio’s maximum current draw from just one supply. This is probably a bad idea but it does seem to do it.

In addition to testing the supply on the bench with an oscilloscope (which output a clean DC trace), I also tested it with the 480HX at full output on CW. Not a hint of RF hash was detected.

I’m only a couple days on the new supplies and I’m very happy with my decision to go this route. The RF hash issues with these types of supplies seems to be a thing of the past. Long gone as the technology has gotten better. However I did notice a voltage output difference between the two units I bought. One of them outputs 14.8V max and the other 13.6V. This doesn’t seem to be all that critical for this application, but could indicate a QC issue during manufacturing. I don’t know who made mine, since I can’t read Chinese, but similar supplies can be found on-line under the name Mega-Watt or other makes with the similar red lettering in the upper left-hand corner of the printed label.

One of the other things to keep in mind is that the terminals are exposed, a concern especially for the AC input terminals. I plan to mount mine in a 2U rack enclosure with Power-pole panel mounts, an AC switch and volt meter. That should address the electrocution any nosy cats who may exploring the shack.

Until next time, 73!
de N3QO
dit dit

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New shack photos

I got some free time this weekend to sit down and finally get the shack in order. Long enough to get some photos shot.

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AvMap update

I have downgraded my AvMap hate campaign to Defcon 3.

Don, W6GPS pulled me back from the ledge and we were able to resurrect my Geosat5. It appears there was some serious corruption to the data on the SD card which caused it to go “missing”.

Don had recommended deleting most of the data on the card except some very key items and re-flashing the software on the card. Unfortunately I was unable to perform the delete from my Windows XP system and had to go as far as mounting the SD card on my Linux system, removing a few files and then performing a remount of the card in Read/write mode. This process had to be repeated a number of times until I was down to the bare essential files on the SD card. For some reason as the computer would read the card, it would force the mount into Read-Only mode. Weird.

It took me a bit to really think about the sudden failure, and I overlook the most obvious reason, the AvMap’s environment.

Think about it, the SD card sits in an enclosed piece of plastic (the GPS) on your dashboard, attached to the windshield in direct sunlight with no airflow. We all know how hot a car gets in the summertime. Come to think of it, I’m surprised the technology even works at all. So for now I’m functional, but who knows for how long. Most likely I will need a new card as I expect this one to deteriorate over time.

Now going back and thinking about my review on the product; Do I think I was a bit harsh? Yes and No. The review was based on my real-world experience with the product and the frustration the quickly followed. Would I recommend the AvMap to someone else? Most likely yes, but with some caveats. The GeoSat really does have great potential, and I’m hoping a number of the bugs that frustrate me can be resolved in future software and hardware revisions.

So for now I’m functional, but who knows for how long. Most likely I will need a new card as I expect this one to deteriorate over time…

de N3QO

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Avmap update

Just a quick update on the issue…

Talk about word getting around, in very short order.
Don, W6GPS contacted me regarding the most recent issue I’ve had with the Geosat5.
Hopefully with some real-world user feedback this could end up being a solid product. Fingers crossed.

Stay tuned..

de N3QO

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